I take the philosophy that “You only live once” to heart – if I’m not working or studying, I like to be doing something that brings me joy. I have spent a lot of my adult life doing things that I have to do – I was a teenage mum, trying to get by with very little money and no idea of what I was doing, and a part of me always felt that I had missed out on that phase of life where people get to know who they are as a person, before settling down and doing the whole grown up thing. Now, in my late thirties, with my son grown, I can finally focus on things I want to do. So, when I heard about the Adventure Queens grant, I applied on a whim, proposing an idea to paddleboard, swim, and wild camp through the Outer Hebrides—a place I’d dreamed of exploring for years.
An Unexpected Opportunity
Although thrilled to win the grant, I was nervous too. Having never travelled alone, I wondered if I’d enjoy it or find it too challenging.Planning was intense, with university and work keeping me very busy. The reality of the trip started sinking in during an initial online meeting with my Adventure Queens mentor. She mentioned that sometimes plans change—like when weather makes paddleboarding impossible—and her comment hit me hard. The idea of not being able to paddle felt like a huge letdown, and I found myself tearing up. In retrospect, I can laugh at my reaction, especially since she was right: while I had some beautiful days of calm weather, many others were windy and wild, requiring flexibility and resourcefulness.
At one point, after days of high winds, I even considered returning to the mainland to continue inland. But ultimately, I decided that as I was already there and had come so far, I’d make the most of it, whatever the weather. With hindsight, I’m so glad that I didn’t pack it all in at that point, as I would have missed out on so much.
A Memorable Day, Despite the Weather
One particularly memorable day was Saturday 14th September. Strong winds and torrential rain kept me from paddleboarding and even walking, so I caught a bus to a local museum for a good meal and a change of scenery. The buses in the Outer Hebrides are more like minibuses, so I nearly missed it the first time I saw one, thinking it was a campervan. After exploring the museum, I found the café packed but managed to grab a seat after waiting a bit. An elderly man asked to join me at my table, and we spent over an hour chatting about life, the universe and everything. I left feeling unexpectedly uplifted and grateful for the encounter. Later, a friendly bus driver took me on a detour to a small community shop, waiting while I picked up supplies, and even pointed out sights and a local pub near my hostel. That evening, I ended up at the pub with a fellow traveller who I met at the hostel and who had braved the storm on her bike. What started as a washout turned into one of my favourite days because of the people I met.
Discovering Solitude, and Unexpected Connections
Traveling solo turned out to be less lonely than I expected. I’m not sure whether this is a general phenomenon or whether it was to do with the place – the Outer Hebrides seemed to be full of outdoorsy people on adventures, and the local people I met were almost all welcoming and kind. On the ferry back to the mainland, I struck up a conversation with a fascinating man and his dog, and we watched dolphins swimming alongside the ship while chatting for hours about our respective lives. These interactions reminded me of how brief encounters can leave a lasting impact.
Nature’s Magic: Paddling and Wildlife Encounters
I was very fortunate that the weather allowed me some paddles, and even on some of the days when it was windy, I managed to find some sheltered spots for little paddles. On the first day, I paddled from Tarbert in Harris to Taransay, an uninhabited island I’d dreamed of visiting ever since watching the series Castaway as a teen. I had brought forward my trip slightly to take advantage of an unexpected stretch of calm weather, which allowed for a couple of magical days on the water. That first paddle was unforgettable. I set out at sunrise, navigating a sea dotted with massive lion’s mane jellyfish and curious seals. When I reached Taransay’s untouched white sand beaches, it felt like stepping into another world. Walking on pristine sand with no human footprints was incredibly moving and I spent so long just walking around, staring at how beautiful it all was.
The water was a beautiful shade of turquoise, and so clear that you could see right down to the sea floor. Each island I visited was different, and all of them were lovely. One of the days in South Uist, I managed a little paddle out during the mostly stormy weather, and I was surprised by an otter that popped up next to me and promptly ducked back down and swam away. North Uist was otherworldly, flat and boggy but stunningly beautiful, and with endless rainbows. I probably saw more rainbows whilst in North Uist than I had in the last ten years, there were so many.
Learning from Setbacks and Mishaps
On my final day, I launched from Vatersay. Unlike the calm of the first day, the wind was stronger, and I nearly turned back. But the scenery was so compelling that I pushed on. Low tide revealed a colourful underwater patchwork of seaweed and plants, and I spent hours paddling over clear waters and exploring deserted bays with untouched beaches. It was challenging, yet the beauty was so overwhelming that I couldn’t help but marvel at it. Under the sea were large patches of sea grass, and the water was so clear that it felt like I was paddling through a field rather than in water.
Of course, there were challenges. While on the deserted island during my first night camping, I felt anxious, imagining my paddleboard blowing away and leaving me stranded. Even after checking on it multiple times, I struggled to sleep, as the waves crashed loudly nearby. I ended up cocooning myself in my sleeping bag, which was so fluffy and soft that it calmed me enough to sleep. And that wasn’t my only hiccup—I discovered while on Taransay that my stove ignition switch was broken, and since I had forgotten a lighter, I couldn’t cook any hot food or boil water until a kind woman gave me some matches when I had paddled back to Harris later on. In my hurry to pack up and leave early to make the most of the weather, I had forgotten some fundamental things – the lighter and a woolly hat being the most important! The forecast for the first section of the trip was for warm weather, so I had neglected to take warmer clothes, thinking only about the weight and space that they would take up in my limited luggage. When the weather turned chilly, I regretted those life choices somewhat!
The Power of Small Moments
As the days went on, fatigue from paddling, walking, and sparse meals wore on me. Nearly two weeks in, I had an unsettling encounter with an unfriendly bus driver who criticized the amount of gear I had brought, even though the bus was nearly empty. I was hungry and tired, the weather was grim, and his comments hit me harder than they normally would have. It took time to shake off my dour mood, but by late afternoon, the fog lifted to reveal stunning views, and my spirits lifted. That evening, a herd of curious cows surrounded my tent, licking my paddleboard and tent for salt and water, and as I watched a sunset from one beach and a supermoon rise from another, I felt completely overwhelmed with emotions. The following morning, I woke up before sunrise, and watched the sun rising and the supermoon setting, with two golden eagles flying overhead. It was so stunning that I didn’t know where to look.
Looking Back: Lessons Learned and Gratitude
Reflecting on the trip, I realized the power of small moments and encounters, both with nature and people. The Outer Hebrides taught me to embrace unpredictability, appreciate solitude, and, above all, savour the connections we make—even the briefest ones. I loved the islands and the slower, relaxed pace of life, and I am in awe of how beautiful they are. I am so glad that I got to paddle, but actually it would have still been a stunning trip even if I hadn’t been able to. I saw so many stunning, white sand beaches with barely anyone on them that they all started to blur into one. There are so many things that I am grateful for; the kindness of strangers and the willingness of people to chat and share their stories and experiences with me; a good internet signal for when planning my next bus route; the opportunity to undertake the trip in the first place and how lucky I was to get all the help and support from Adventure Queens and the brilliant sponsors.
Essex based AQ, Sarah loves spending time in beautiful places, preferably on or in the water. Paddleboarding and open water swimming are favourite hobbies, and when doing ‘serious stuff’ she spends her time as a glutton for punishment, competing the Occupational Therapy degree apprenticeship whilst working full time as an OT Assistant in a community health team.
